If you're coming from a country where Uber is cheap and plentiful, Norway will reset your expectations. Ride-hailing apps work here, Uber and Bolt drivers are licensed taxi drivers, and the cars are generally good. But this is one of the most expensive countries in the world for getting around by car, and while the ride-hailing apps are generally cheaper than taxis they're not outright cheap.
Somewhere around the four-hour mark, the pine forests thin out and vanish. The last stunted birch gives way to nothing. And then the train breaks above the tree line onto the Hardangervidda plateau, and the world goes white and silent and enormous.
